Biographie 9a+ New Crux Sequence

Exploring all the rock possibilities. Biographie is one of the most iconic route on the world. First Ascented by Chris Sharma in 2001, followed by Sylvain Millet in 2004. This historical piece saw the strongest climbers on earth travelling for her beauty. Let’s talk about the process of finding betas. When I started working this route, I checked every videos to see the betas from other. I was quite inspired, yet I was feeling something wrong on the classic sequence of the upper crux (for me). So I tried to find something better with many crazy betas. I call this process “exploring the rock possibilities“. At the end I found a new sequence, skiping the left crux hold and jumping on to the crimp. Problem was I got the crimp wrong hand. Luckily there was a two finger pocket more on the right which permit to come back on straight on the line. This nice edit from Raphael Fourau is showing the new sequence on the upper crux.