Complete Guide to Carabiners - Shapes, Styles & How they Fail | Ep.2

Detailed Class on Carabiners. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on loads lower than what they are rated for (kN on the spine of the Carabiner) and how to avoid that. 00:00 Intro 00:44 Aluminium Alloy 01:34 Steel 01:54 Hot-Forged 02:48 Shapes - Oval vs D 03:55 Shapes - HMS (Pear) 05:08 Shapes - Belay carabiners 06:52 Shapes - QuickLink 07:43 Gate - Non-Locking 08:59 Gate - How to Correctly use 2 non-locking carabiners? 10:22 Gate - Screw gate 11:17 Gate - Auto-Locking 13:24 Size - Is smaller better? 14:57 Strength - What matters in real world? 18:08 Strength - Can you break Cross-Loaded carabiner? 19:44 Strength - Nose Hook - Dangerous! 20:59 Strength - Carabiner bent over the edge 22:10 Strength - Triload 24:08 When to Retire your carabiner? 25:43 Microfractures - Can you Drop your carabiner? 27:20 Bonus question Choosing Guide for Beginners For bolted single pitch climbing: 1x Belay Device Carabiner: Mammut Bionic Cross Lock - Mammut Smart HMS - Black Diamond Grid Lock EDELRID HMS Bulletproof 1-2x small size, D shape, autolocker or screw gate for Tether / Lanyard or other use cases (having multifunctional carabiners is always handy): Nordwand Micro Lock: The fastests screw gate I’ve ever tried, but most of them work fine, so choose whatever is pretty to you. For bolted multipitches you might want to add: 2x small, D shape screw gate for connecting anchor to bolts: Nordwand Micro Lock: 1x bigger, screw or autolocker for Master point: Workhorse HMS: * Above links might be affiliate and give me small benefit. ❤ If you are getting value out of my videos and wanna feel good - consider supporting me Because that makes a big difference and allows me to do this project! Deep Thanks! Ben ❤ Special Thanks For Mammut for helping me to create this episode! Additional resources: Corrosion in Climbing Carabiners Forces at work in a real fall Black Diamond QC LAB: WEAKNESS OF NOSE-HOOKED CARABINERS DMM Nose Hooked tests