Thanks to Starbond and SuperClear for supporting my channel and this video, which would have been impossible without the use of their products. Check out the links below for discounts, referral links, and more!
Starbond’s YouTube Channel: @StarbondAdhesives
Use Discount Code ADAMSEN15 for 15% all Starbond products!
Shop Starbond:
I have used Starbond products for the past 2 years and can’t say enough positive things about them. I have never taken paid sponsorships before, but Starbond is a product I use and recommend already.
Shop Discounts at SuperClear: @superclearepoxy
(I don’t get anything for sharing that link, but SuperClear has been generous in providing some of the epoxy used in this video).
This project was a commission and is not for sale. If you’re interested in my other projects, or if you would like to contact me for possible commission work, check out my website:
All of the music used in this video came from:
So let’s talk about misusing resin, because that’s exactly what I demonstrated in this video. Deep pours of this size require active cooling to avoid thermal cracking, and I really had no idea what I was getting into with this one other than that I fully anticipated that the resin would crack. I was not prepared for just how much cracking would take place, and I think that alone made the project much more difficult. I was also warned by a SuperClear representative that their resin is known to chip in woodturning applications, but I think the chip-out was exacerbated by all the extra voids left from the thermal cracking. In the end, the results speak for themselves, and I think all that extra work was worth it for a truly unique poisonous cauldron! Thanks for watching, and I hope you enjoyed me experimenting with a new (to me) fog machine!
I’m not the first to coat burls in contrast-color epoxy before casting in resin, but this was my first attempt to emphasize the natural edges of the burl using glow pigments in epoxy. I also attempted to use glow pigments in the casting resin, but as expected, the glow powder drifts to the bottom of the mold and most of the pigment was lost. This was also the heaviest blank I have ever turned, coming close to 80 lbs. Fortunately, there’s a nice core blank for a future project!
Thanks for watching this video! If you have any questions or comments about this video, please comment below. I cannot always respond to every comment, but I make time to read virtually every comment.
Follow me on Instagram:
@adamsen_woodcraft
Follow me on Facebook:
REFERRAL LINKS TO PRODUCTS I USE:
Glow-in-the-dark Pigments:
(Also) Glow-in-the-dark Pigments:
Kutzall sphere rotary burr:
Vacuum Pump:
Vacuum Chamber:
Minwax wood stabilizer:
Starbond Clear Thin CA glue:
Starbond Clear Medium CA glue:
Starbond Clear Thick CA glue:
Starbond Medium Brown CA glue:
Starbond Medium-Thick Black CA glue:
Starbond Activator:
TotalBoat Penetrating Epoxy:
TotalBoat Thickset Epoxy:
TotalBoat Tabletop Epoxy:
Mylands cellulose sanding sealer:
Mahoney’s Finishes Walnut Wax:
Mahoney’s Finishes Walnut Oil:
Turntable for glamour shots:
Easy Wood Tools Carbide Cutter:
Easy Wood Tools Carbide Cutter (negative rake):
Beall buffing system:
3 inch Sanding Disks:
Makita right angle drill/sander:
My favorite finish (Mahoney’s Walnut products):
Pyrography Pen:
Carter & Son 5/8“ Bowl Gouge:
Crown Diamond Parting Tool:
Tormek T-8 Sharpener with Woodturners Accessories:
Five minute epoxy:
My camera:
My microphone:
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